ROMAIN WACZIARG

m

ROYAL ARCHES


Ascent of Royal Arches (5.7, A0), Yosemite Valley CA, with René Renteria, June 25, 2004


Pitch

Rating

Length

On lead

Observations

1

5.6

110'

René

The crux is at the bottom with awkward chimney moves.

2

5.6

260'+120'

Romain

Mostly 2nd and 3rd class walking for 260', then "crack on face" to the right of a polished gully.

3

4th

160'

Romain

Easy 4th up a gully. Don't go up to the left!

 

4

3rd

160'

Walk

2nd and 3rd class walk-up to a ledge at the base of an obvious finger crack

5

5.7

130'

René

A challenging 5.7 finger crack with good pro and easier face climbing above

6

5.7

180'

Romain

Ran the full length of the rope on sustained climbing leading to a great tree belay.

7

5.5

100'

René

Mostly 4th class with one 5.5 move; a short pitch to avoid rope drag.

8

5.6

120'

René

Nice pitch starting with a 5.5 off-width and ending with 5.6 and 5.4 flakes.

9

5.7 A0

125'

Romain

The pendulum pitch. Starts with an easy chimney and ends on a narrow ledge to the left.

10

5.4

110'

René

A short 5.4 traverse followed by 4th class exposed walking on ledges to a tree belay.

11

5.7

100'

René

Sustained liebacks and stemming to a large tree which affords potential help on the 5.7 part.

12

5.6

170'

Romain

Exposed "step over void". Angle up too soon and it's 5.7. Traverse left early for 5.6 climbing.

13

5.5

70'

René

Easy climbing to a large tree.

 

14

5.4

150'

Romain

5.4 friction traverse followed by trivial climbing up a wide groove to a belay in cracks on slab.

15

5.3

150'

René

Easy climbing up low angle slabs, past the rappel anchors, to a large tree.

16

5.4

170'

Romain

Friction traverse to the trees that mark the end of the climb. 2 bolts (one hanger-less) for pro.

 

Photos:

Please check here.


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