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MOUNT WHITNEY, CROOKS PEAK, MOUNT MUIR


Pictures from the ascent of Mount Whitney, Crooks Peak and Mount Muir, October 27, 2002
(Click image for larger view)

October 26, 2002 - The Approach

Sven Feldmann and I left Whitney Portal at 9:30 am an reached Trail Camp at 1:30 PM, in time for a late lunch. In the afternoon I hiked up to the base of the East Buttress of Mount Muir to check it out, and we spent a leasurly afternoon in camp, witnessing the changing weather and the afternoon colors. People kept walking ito camp throughout the afternnon. There were maybe 8 tents at Trail Camp that night. A lot of people were also coming down from Whitney. As far as we could tell only a couple made it to the summit that day. Most were not prepared for the weather. Some were wearing jeans and sneakers, and could not get past the ice on the 99 switchbacks. 


1. The Whitney Trail

2. Wotan's Throne from Outpost Camp

3. Outpost Camp

4. Hiking

5. Mirror Lake 

6. Looking towards Lone Pine

7. Approaching Trail Camp

8. Consultation Lake and Whitney Pass

9. Hiking to Trail Camp

10. Mount Irvine

11.Mount Muir from Trail Camp

12. Mount Muir and the Whitney crest.

13. The Needles and mount Whitney ion the afternoon clouds.


14. Posing in from of Mount Muir

15. Quaint Camp

16. The Kitchen

17. Clearing up in the afternoon

18. More of Mount Muir in the last rays of the afternoon sun.

19. Mount Irvine
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20. Trail Camp, at the base of the South side of Wotan's Throne.

21. The Needles and Mount Whitney

22. Mount Russell from the moraine below the East Buttress of Mount Muir.

23. Trail Camp from above.
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24. Sven in bed

25. Me in bed

October 27, 2002 - Hike up Mount Whitney via the main trail

It snowed part of the night, and we woke up with a couple of inches of snow on our tent. We left camp at 8 am and made our way up the 99 switchbacks in damp and cloudy weather. The fresh snow gave us good traction and we did not need crampons. We reached the summit of Mount Whitney at 11:30 am and stayed over an hour, having lunch and taking pictures. Shortly after we reached the summit the sun broke through the clouds and lifted them away. Surrounding peaks - Mount Russell, Mount Langley, the Kaweahs, the Great Western Divide, the Kings-Kern Divde - progressively emerged, and the cloudy weather gave way to a perfect day. By the time we were leaving the summit, only scattered clouds remained, mostly to the North. We made our way down the trail towards Crooks Peak.


26. Mount Muir in the morning light. The East Buttress is in view.

27. Trail camp, snow covered after a night of snowfall.

28. Trail Crest, around 10 am
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29. First sunshine of the day on Mount Hitchcock and the Hitchcock lakes

30. The trail - leisurly making our way up to Mount Whitney's summit.

31. Guitar lake in the sun.

32. The summit, around 11:30.

33. The sun lifts the clouds away as we arrive.

34. The summit marker

35. Resting on the summit

36. More resting 

37. Sven and I on the summit 

38. Keeler Needle from the summit of Mount Whitney
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39. Sven and the Kaweahs in the background. the weather is improving

40. Mount Russell still under clouds.

41. Tulainyo lake and the Russell-Carillon saddle.

42. Centennial, Milestone, Midway, Table and Thunder mountains, with the Kern river canyon in the foreground.

43. On the summit.
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44. Mount McAdie, Mount Mallory, Mount Irvine and (in the background) Mount Langley

October 27, 2002 - Crooks Peak via the Whitney Trail

Crooks Peak (14,180 ft) is a 10-minute class 1-2 scramble from the Whitney Trail. Not a very exciting climb, but the summit block is narrow and exposed, and the view of surrounding peaks (including Whitney) is spectacular. As far as we could tell there is no summit register on Crooks Peak. See here for a story of where the name of Crooks Peak comes from. It was previously known as Day Needle, and was renamed in 1990.


45. Iceberg Lake and Mount Carillon, from the summit of Crooks Peak

46. Mount Whitney from the summit of Crooks Peak.

47. The North Fork of Lone Pine Creek from the summit of Crooks Peak - the Alabama Hills and Lone Pine in the distance.

48. Yours truly on the summit of Crooks Peak.

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49. More of the same.

50. Pinnacle Ridge from the summit of Crooks Peak

51. Sven - a gentleman climber on the summit

52. Sven on the summit - the ice axe at least looks cool.

October 27, 2002 - Mount Muir via the Whitney Trail

Around 2:30, we hiked down the trail in search of the correct talus chute up Mount Muir. The tricky part is that it is hard to tell which pinnacle is the summit of Muir from the trail. We went too far and scrambled up the wrong chute. We found ourselves on a small pinnacle on the Whitney Ridge, in full view of the true summit of Mount Muir. Since much of the traverse from our small pinnacle to Mount Muir seemed exposed and difficult, we hiked back to the trail. By then Sven had had enough climbing for the day and decided to hike back to camp and pack it up. I was not so easily discouraged, however. I made my way back up the Whitney trail and located the correct chute. At 3:30 I started up the chute, then to the right to the base of the summit of Mount Muir, and proceeded to solo up the class 3/4 rock up to the summit. There was one useful cairn on the way. Above the talus in the chute the route has some sustained class 3 climbing, and class 4 if you get off route (which I managed to avoid). The class 3 is pretty exposed and sustained, especially in the late season when all the handholds were snow and ice covered. The summit block was covered with a thin coat of snow, which made it tricky. The point is that the standard descriptions of the way up Mount Muir is fine for the middle of summer, but probably understates the difficulty of the climb in semi-winter conditions. Or maybe it's just that I was alone. At 4 PM I was on the small summit of Muir, signed the summit register (there is a brand new notebook, and the last entry was from October 20), and at 4:30 I was hiking down the Whitney Trail towards trail crest, the switchbacks and camp...


53. Mount Muir from a small pinnacle on the Whitney ridge.
Check here for the class 3 route up Mount Muir.

54. Mount Muir from a small pinnacle on the Whitney ridge. 

55. Mount Whitney from a small pinnacle on the Whitney Ridge.

56. Guitar Lake and Mount Young in the background
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57. On the trail

58. The summit ridge to Mount Muir. I contemplated going straight up here and finally decided to move more to the right, where the climbing was a more manageable class 3.

59. My foot and the summit register box.

60. A poor attempt at a self portrait on the summit.

61. Mount whitney from the summit of Muir.
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62. The pinnacle we had wrongly climbed with Sven, and one of the Hitchcock lakes below.

63. Wotan's Throne and Lone Pine Peak from the summit.
 

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64. Looking back at the summit block of Mount Muir (the actual summit is hidden from view). Click here for the route. This is taken from above the main trail, but this is roughly what you should see from the trail.

65. The trail can be pretty spectacular. 

66. Back at trail crest, in gorgeous weather.

October 27 and 28, 2002 - The Return

The snow on the switchbacks had partially thawed and refrozen in the afternoon shade, so crampons came in handy for the descent. As I reached camp around 5:30 I noticed Sven had packed up the tent and the gear. We were ready to go. After a granola bar we proceeded down the trail in the dusk. We took out our headlamps at Trailside Meadows, and reached Whitney Portal at 10 pm. A quick dinner, and bed. The next day was a beautiful day, and we SUVed our way through the Alabama Hills before indulging in a big breakfast in Lone Pine.


67. These headlamps came in handy. Hiking back to Whitney Portal.

68. Thor Peak, Crooks Peak, Keeler Needle and Mount Whitney from the Portal

69. Thor Peak, Crooks Peak, Keeler Needle and Mount Whitney from the Portal

70. Lone Pine Peak and Mount Whitney from the Alabama Hills

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