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ROYAL ARCHES


An ascent of Royal Arches, Yosemite Valley, CA, June 25, 2004

(Royal Arches Route, 5.7, A0), with René Renteria

 

Pitch Rating Length On lead Observations
1 5.6 110' René The crux is at the bottom with awkward chimney moves.
2 5.6 260'+120' Romain Mostly 2nd and 3rd class walking for 260', then "crack on face" to the right of a polished gully.
3 4th 160' Romain Easy 4th up a gully. Don't go up to the left!
4 3rd 160' Walk 2nd and 3rd class walk-up to a ledge at the base of an obvious finger crack
5 5.7 130' René A challenging 5.7 finger crack with good pro and easier face climbing above
6 5.7 180' Romain Ran the full length of the rope on sustained climbing leading to a great tree belay.
7 5.5 100' René Mostly 4th class with one 5.5 move; a short pitch to avoid rope drag.
8 5.6 120'

René

Nice pitch starting with a 5.5 off-width and ending with 5.6 and 5.4 flakes.
9 5.7 A0 125' Romain The pendulum pitch. Starts with an easy chimney and ends on a narrow ledge to the left.
10 5.4 110' René A short 5.4 traverse followed by 4th class exposed walking on ledges to a tree belay.
11 5.7 100' René Sustained liebacks and stemming to a large tree which affords potential help on the 5.7 part.
12 5.6 170' Romain Exposed "step over void". Angle up too soon and it's 5.7. Traverse left early for 5.6 climbing.
13 5.5 70' René Easy climbing to a large tree.
14 5.4 150' Romain 5.4 friction traverse followed by trivial climbing up a wide groove to a belay in cracks on slab.
15 5.3 150'

René

 Easy climbing up low angle slabs, past the rappel anchors, to a large tree.
16 5.4 170' Romain Friction traverse to the trees that mark the end of the climb. 2 bolts (one hangerless) for pro.

(Click image for larger view)


1. View of Yosemite Valley from one of the lower pitches of the Royal Arches Route.

2. Looking up from the base of pitch 6 (the route is actually to the left)

3. Top of pitch 6
4. Top of pitch 6


5. René leading pitch 8

 


6. I'm leading up the pendulum pitch (#9)

(photo courtesy of René Renteria)

7. View from the base of pitch #9, across Yosemite Valley towards the Glacier Point Apron.

(photo courtesy of René Renteria)


8. I'm negotiating the pendulum.

(photo courtesy of René Renteria)

9. René at the Pendulum (pitch 9)

 


10. View back towards the belay at the top of pitch #9, from the belay at the end of pitch 10.

(photo courtesy of René Renteria)

11. René heads up pitch 11.

  
12. René climbing on pitch 12.


13. Looking up from the top of pitch 12.

(photo courtesy of René Renteria)

14. At a belay (top of pitch 12)

(photo courtesy of René Renteria)

15. At a belay (top of pitch 12)

(photo courtesy of René Renteria)

 
16. At a belay (top of pitch 12)

(photo courtesy of René Renteria)

17. View of Grizzly Peak from the pitch 12 belay.

 18. View of Half Dome from the pitch 12 belay.

19. Climbing pitch 13.

(photo courtesy of René Renteria)

20. René on the 5.4 friction traverse (pitch 16).


21. Yosemite Falls from near the Valley Rim.

 

22. Coiling the rope at the end of the climb.

(photo courtesy of René Renteria)


23. Half Dome from the hike along the valley rim towards the North Dome gully

 


24. Half Dome from near the top of Washington Column.

(photo courtesy of René Renteria)


25. North Dome.


26. North Dome. Crest Jewel is visible from this photo.


27. Royal Arches Route from near the Ahwahnee Hotel

(photo courtesy of René Renteria)


28. Near the base of the climb.

(photo courtesy of René Renteria)

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